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Autobiography of a Surfer: From ocean to eucalyptus in the 70s Kindle Edition

by Roditch (Author) Format: Kindle Edition

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Born in Warrnambool in the early 50s it was only a matter of time before I took up surfing. The waves were bad, cold and ugly. The boards were long, heavy and hard to manoeuvre. The initiation into surfing was difficult: Bloody knees, sore heads and exposure to extreme cold. And there was the chance of being a shark's dinner. All good fun and respite from the boring life back in town. Surfing brings you closer to nature than anything else I know. You become half dolphin and half fish. Tumbling in the waves and bumping on sandy bottoms is a kind of freedom only surfers know. I started around 15 and by the time I was 18 we were all traveling farther afield in search of waves. Discovering the Passage at Port Fairy, Whites Beach at Portland, spreading our wings. I loved surfing and would have died inside over and over again without it. Then things changed. At the age of 18 I travelled over the Nullabor Plains to Western Australia, back to Sydney, down to Adelaide, up to Castlemaine, back to Warrnambool and then Rushworth. I liked the trees and forests of Northern Victoria and would remain conflicted for the rest of my life about the ocean and forests. Settling on the fact that i could live among the trees all day long but only surf sometimes. This tale starts in Warrnambool and ends in many other places. The morale is we never know where we are going next, with whom and with what. Should we stay in one place all our lives or move on? Without knowing it I have managed to move on and on. There is no way I thought it could have ever been like this and often wonder why I didn’t.